Trip Report: Gaspé Coastal (September 5-11th, 2024)

The Gaspé Peninsula has held a special place in my heart for some time. Growing up in Maine Atlantic Salmon had always been somewhat of a mythical fish and something that seemed unattainable. I spent my younger years targeting their smaller land locked relatives but there was only a very short period in my life where targeting real deal Atlantic Salmon in Maine was even legal and regrettably I never got the opportunity. After seeing pictures and videos in my college years of the crystal clear rivers of the Gaspé peninsula, the fish that swam in them and the culture and community surrounding the fish and the rivers, I was already obsessed and knew I had to go. Fast track to today, this upcoming season will be my 4th and 5th trips visiting the rivers of the Gaspé with more excitement than ever to return.

We arrived on September 5th and we were to fish for 5 days with the fine folks of Gaspé Coastal, a new operation that has been in the works of opening a new lodge on the Grand Cascapedia river for the past several years. On this trip since the new lodge was under construction we stayed in the historic Camp Brulé salmon camp located on the Petite Cascapedia river. Gaspé Coastal is run by Andrew Murphy, and Sarah Nellis, two amazing people who are some of the main faces of the younger generation of salmon anglers and conservationists in the area. On top of Atlantic Salmon, they love striped bass. And brook trout. They just love fishing. The idea behind their operation is to not be the same old school salmon lodge that has existed for years on their surrounding rivers, but to showcase everything that the area has to offer and to bring a fresh new much more inclusive and welcoming twist on things. Gaspé Coastal offers opportunities for Atlantic Salmon, Striped Bass flats fishing, and sea run brook trout fishing. On this trip we were to focus on exploring the emerging striped bass fishery in the and to try our hand at fall salmon fishing.

For those who haven't fished for them, Atlantic Salmon fishing can be fickle. They are extremely condition dependent and sometimes it just doesn't pan out. Even with perfect conditions I have fished over more salmon than I can count that have just flipped me the middle fin and ignored every fly I put in front of them or over them. To me that is part of the draw of salmon fishing, the unpredictability, the randomness, the work required to achieve success, and the reward at the end of the day when it eventually does all come together. However even when the catching isn't great, the beauty of the rivers surrounding the Gaspé Coastal operation is that they are extremely clear, to the point where you can virtually see every fish in a lay at times. There is always interaction with the fish whether the catching comes to fruition or not. For this trip we arrived with reports of lower than average runs of salmon and low catch rates for the season. However, just days before we arrived, fall rains came and raised river levels significantly, refreshing the salmon in the rivers and likely drawing new ones in. On top of that, the nights were cold and the water temps were dropping. We were cautiously optimistic.

On the first day of fishing everyone in the group except myself and another angler Jake chose to target striped bass. This was somewhat surprising to me because almost the entire group I was fishing with were seasoned striped bass anglers back here in Maine. However there is something to be said about an unpressured fishery with endless flats to explore and mountain backdrops. Quite a contrast from our very populated Maine coast and something everyone was excited to experience. Day 1 yielded no salmon, though me and Jake did move about a half dozen fish to our flies. The story from the 6 striped bass anglers was quite different. Phrases like "every cast" and "couldn't keep them off" were being thrown around all too readily. On day 2 it was a half and half mix with 4 of us going for salmon and 4 going back out on the skiffs. This day would bring the first salmon to hand with a nice large male salmon sporting its full spawning colors and a large kype brought to hand by Jake on the Bonaventure river. 

On day 3 I was feeling a little defeated from fishing over so many salmon without any results so I decided to go out to see what the striped bass fishing was all about. As soon as we launched we saw birds working with bass under them. We approached and it became more apparent how many fish were around. Our guide AP got on the poling platform and tried to choose a direction fort one of us to cast. Problem was, the fish had formed a circle around our skiff and there wasn't really a direction that you could cast that was wrong. The density of fish was unbelievable. We caught fish on crousers and small baitfish patterns and then switched to poppers when that became seemingly to easy. Even with the poppers you couldn't take more than 5 strips without getting an eat. Oftentimes they would take the fly as soon as it hit the water without even making a strip. By noon we had more than had our fill and decided to go get some poutine and try a new spot where we proceeded to do it all over again. The striper fishing is bonkers and totally unlike what we have here in the states. The fish are uneducated and willing to eat. They are numerous and come in all sizes. All accompanied by mountain backdrops and no one in sight. A healthy thriving fishery worth visiting whether you are a seasoned flats angler or just looking to learn how to fish for striped bass. 

Now back to the salmon. After returning from striper fishing I was excited to hear another angler in the group, Dillon, had brought another salmon to hand, a nice relatively fresh looking female salmon, again from the Bonaventure River. The remainder of the trip was salmon days for the whole group. Day 4 was a special one for me because I got the fish I was looking for on this trip, a large male colored up salmon sporting its fall kype on the Grand Cascapedia River. "The Cascapedia Buck". An insanely big fish to my standards, but not the biggest we would see on the trip. This was the only salmon brought to hand on that day. Day 5 will go down as one of my tops. Gaspé Coastal had certainly saved the best for last as far as water goes. The entire group had water on the Grand Cascapedia. As we split up to fish our respected water and after feeling pretty good about my previous day, I chose to tag along as a spectator with 2 in the group who were going to fish some very exclusive water that I had not seen before. Around noon I heard an explosion in the water and looked over to see the wake of what looked like a tree falling from the sky into the water. Alex was hooked up. After a ten minute long fight Alex brought the fish of the trip in close enough for Sarah to scoop into the net. It was an even bigger salmon than the one I caught the previous day and to this day it is hard for me to fathom that a salmon can get much bigger than that. But that's what will keep me coming back for more, to find out.

At the end of the last day we all met up at one of the pools that we knew had a lot of salmon for a last ditch effort. These fish had been worked over all day but were seemingly active. After a couple hours of hanging out, enjoying some beverages and good conversation, it was my turn to give it a few before heading home. I ran through a couple flies and eventually tied on a small size 12 red francis (dressed on a double not on a tube) that one of our guides Alex Mallais had given me on Day 1. He had jokingly told me it's better than the ones I tied for the trip. I only say this because it is my belief that confidence is everything in salmon fishing. Every cast you make needs to feel like it's going to catch a fish. Every fly you tie on has to feel like it's the best fly for the situation. I had the mojo in that moment and in that moment a salmon decided to come a foot below the surface and inhale that little fly. Though I wish someone else caught the fish, collectively it was the final salmon of the trip, and one I got to enjoy with all of my closest friends who were joining me on this trip. Another experience like Alex's giant salmon earlier that day that I am hard pressed to believe can be bested. But I will be back to find out.

This upcoming season is going to be an extremely special one. With two trips planned (June 3rd-8th and September 8th-14th), we are so excited to continue our relationship with Gaspé Coastal. Here's what to expect for this year. This is the first season in the newly renovated Gaspé Coastal lodge. The June 3rd-8th group will be the first to see and stay at the lodge in its completion. I got a sneak peak while up there in September and it is something else, featuring single occupancy cabins, a communal dining area, rec area with fireplace and full bar, massive porch, and get this, exclusive private water on the Grand Cascapedia. I couldn't be more excited. The first week of June also signals opening week for the Grand Cascapedia and Bonaventure rivers. With the potential for our flies to be the first the salmon see as they enter the rivers, this also excites me beyond belief. June is the time for utilizing two handed rods and swinging flies. Single handed rods can be used to equal effect, but if you like spey casting and swinging flies, this is the time. Fish tend to be more aggressive this time of year, and often tend to be the biggest fish of the year. They call these unicorn salmon. The September trip will be to hope for the same conditions as 2024. Fall can be less reliable than spring from a conditions perspective for salmon, but if summer has loosened its grip and the waters are cooling by then, we are sure to have some successful salmon fishing. And for the stripers, well, you can catch as many or as few as you want in the way you want to catch them.